If you are planning to stay in Siena for a few days, you are no doubt well versed in this very historical Tuscan town's raison d'être, the Palio. What to some (read: the rest of the world!) may seem to be no more than a very colorful bi-annual pageant capped off by the most unruly horse race on the planet is, for the Sienese, a lifelong commitment and the basis upon which communities have been maintained for over five centuries now. Fierce loyalty still reigns amongst the residents of the city's 17 contrade (historic neighborhoods), whose boundaries have not changed during all those years. So, if you stay a week in this elegant apartment, you'd better get used to being a de facto member of the Nicchio contrada for the rest of your days. That's pronounced nee-kyo, and it means The Shell. Allow us to say that the Sienese seem to be a bit obsessed with drawing territorial boundaries. Not only did they carve up the town into contrade, they also trisected it into terzi. Nicchio is located in the Terzo di San Martino, about 300 yards from Piazza del Campo, on the second floor of a lovely old palazzo. The building was formerly a convent, as attested by the arches on the ground floor and in the central courtyard around which you will climb 40 steps to get home. The Nicchio apartment is bright and comfortably furnished mostly with antiques. The very large 1400-square-foot area (which seems even larger thanks to the soaring wood-beamed ceilings) consists of a spacious living room with sofa and TV; a separate dining room with an antique table for six; a well-equipped kitchen with oven and range, fridge/freezer, dishwasher, and washing machine; a double bedroom; a twin bedroom; a single bedroom; one bathroom with shower and one bathroom with bathtub. Light sleepers will be delighted to know that all three bedrooms (and the living room) face the quiet courtyard. There is no telephone, but you can easily rent a cell phone, and an Internet point is right downstairs, next to the greengrocer's, the ice cream shop and a charming little moderately-priced restaurant.