Location: In the Atlantic Ocean midway between the Canary islands of Tenerife and El Hierro. Position: 20 miles W of the port of Los Cristianos in Tenerife from where ferry boat and hydrofoil services operate to San Sebastian de la Gomera. The hydrofoil also continues from Playa de Santiago to Valle Gran Rey which takes just 15 minutes. Small aircraft fly to the local airport at Playa Santiago from the neighbouring islands of Tenerife (N and S airports), Gran Canaria (Las Palmas) and La Palma. General Description: Smallest of the 7 Canary Islands, La Gomera is also the tip of an extinct volcano: circular and a mere 15 miles across. The central peak is only 4,879 feet high and usually shrouded in mist creating a microclimate ideal for the island's unique bay laurel forest, a protected World Heritage Site forming the Garajonay National Park. The park is threaded with well-marked walking trails and is a hiker's delight. Steep-sided valleys descend from the cool and damp of the peak to the warm equable climate enjoyed on the coast where the main villages and resorts are situated. Like Tenerife, the north is verdant while the south is arid. The major activity for the small native population of 17,000 is still agriculture with cochineal, bananas and tomatoes the major produce. Tourism is very undeveloped as yet but accounts for an increasing part of the island's economy. SAN SEBASTIAN on the E coast is the island's largest town, capital, port, administrative centre and home to a quarter of the native population. This sleepy little place still has some 15th-century Spanish colonial buildings including the Torre del Conde, a defensive tower intended to keep pirates at bay - unsuccessfully. But its real claim to fame is as Christopher Columbus's last port of call on his trip to discover the Americas. The tourist office still contains the well from which he drew his water supply and the house that he later built here is now a museum. PLAYA de SANTIAGO is a quiet village on the South coast which gets lots of sun and is a working fishing port. Alongside the harbour-side are several restaurants offering local cuisine where you can while away the hours watching the fishing boats unloading their catches. The village offers two banks, a pharmacy, post office, two grocery shops and some local craft/gift shops. To the West of the village lies the island airport, here only small aircraft can land and there are three flights daily to Tenerife and Gran Canaria. The largest hotel on the island, Hotel Jardin Tecina, which has an 18 hole golf course and diving school, is situated on a headland at one end of the village. Here you may enjoy the hotel entertainments or sample one of the five restaurants, which offer a variety of local and international dishes. Development on the island is strictly regulated and any new buildings within the village blend in with the traditional architecture and dramatic cliffs which act as a backdrop. From the harbour boat trips can be taken around the island, with a chance of seeing dolphins. Also, the more developed resort of Valle Gran Rey can be visited using the regular hydrofoil service. VALLE GRAN REY on the W coast is the closest thing to a proper resort mainly because it has the island's longest and best beach. Comprising 4 little hamlets spread over 1? miles it is backed by spectacular soaring mountains. Although directly accessible by hydrofoil from Playa de Santiago the approach by road down the massive steep-sided valley makes the trip well worthwhile. Apartment developments are rapidly popping up along the beach and the infrastructure to support tourism developing in a similar pace. The majority of tourists in Valle Gran Rey are German although English is spoken in most shops and restaurants. Market/Suitability: Definitely not for the usual Canary Island booze and beach brigade - or their young offspring. This is a very quiet, unsophisticated, rural retreat for those seeking total relaxation with the options of scenic boat trips and car drives to see the spectacular mountain scenery or serious hiking in the National Park. Beaches: Valle Gran Rey boasts the best pair of black sand beaches but with a good scattering of pebbly stretches. A similar mix, shorter but wider, exists at San Sebastian and is sheltered by being within the large enclosed harbour. Playa Santiago's offering varies from smooth rounded boulders - too heavy to lift - in the lee of the cliffs beneath the main hotel, to black sand, finer grey pebbles and shingle near the fishing port.